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9 basic seam crafts
Jul 14, 2021

Sewing is a very important process in the garment production, different garment requirements also require different sewing patterns to meet. But the following 9 basic stitching craftsmans need to master!

9 basic seam crafts

①Flat seam ②Pressing seam ③Inner overlock seam

④Outsourcing seam ⑤Cut and go seam ⑥Partial pressure seam

⑦Seam ⑧Blanking seam ⑨Hemming seam

1. Flat seam

Key point: Fold the two layers of garments on the front side, and evenly tie a thread on the back side according to the specified seam allowance. The width of the seam allowance varies according to the thickness and tightness of the fabric texture, and the position where it is located, usually 0.8-1.2cm.

Flat seam

2. Crimping seam

Key point: First, press the seam edge of the fabric upside down according to the specified seam allowance, then put it in the specified position, and add a 0.1cm open thread on the folded edge.

Pressing seam

3. Inner overlock

Key points: overlap the front sides of the two layers of garments relative to each other, the lower garment piece is 0.8cm more than the upper garment piece, and the upper layer is wrapped with 0.1cm stitches from the sidecar, and then the overlock is folded down to cover the raw edges. The 0.6cm open line of the front car.

Inner overlock

4. Outsourcing seam

Key point: The sewing method is the same as that of the inner overlock.

The difference: the back of the two layers of garment pieces are overlapped, and the seam of the lower layer is 0.8cm wrapped. In order to make the overlock flat and thin, the wrapping seam is held by 0.1cm, and then the overlock is placed on the front of the upper layer 0.1cm to clear the mouth, pay attention to the back seam to be fully separated without any false seams. Used for men's dual-use shirts, jackets, etc.

Outsourcing seam

5. Come and sew

Key points: ① Coming to sew: stack the back of the two layers of garments on top of each other, cut a 0.5cm open thread from the edge, and then trim the seam allowance to 0.3cm.

② De-stitching: Turn over the two pieces of sewing after sewing to form the front facing each other, buckle the seam side by hand, and then turn the second line of 0.6cm along the side, so that the lint from the first seam cannot be exposed.

Come and sew

6. Partial pressure seam

Key points: Fold the front sides of the two layers of garments together, and cut 1cm along the edge; then separate the seam allowances to both sides, and then fold one of the garment pieces to the other, so that the two layers of garment pieces face each other. One side has one layer of seam allowance, and the other side has three layers (two layers are garment pieces and one layer is seam allowance). On one side of the three layers, the seam allowance is a 0.1cm open line.

Partial pressure seam

7. Seam

Key points: After the seam of two layers is flat seamed, the wool seam sits down on one side, and an open thread is pressed on the front. In order to reduce the thickness of the splicing, the small seam is enlarged during the flat seam, that is, 0.4 or 0.6cm of the seam of the lower layer is released. After the flat seam, the hair seam in the direction of the small seam, and an open thread is pressed on the front so that the small seam is covered. In the large seam, it is generally used for decoration and reinforcement of the splicing part of the garment piece.

Seam

8. Key points: fold the two sides of the fabric and fold it into double layers, the lower layer is slightly wider than the upper layer, sandwich the garment piece in the middle, cut 0.1cm along the edge of the upper layer to clear the mouth, and sew the upper, middle and lower layers together. It is used to install sleeves and waistbands.

8

9. Hemming

Key points: The reverse side of the garment piece is facing up. After folding the seam head, turn it to a certain width, and cut 0.1cm along the edge of the welt to clean the mouth. Pay attention to the same tightness of the upper and lower layers to prevent ripples.

Hemming

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